Miscellaneous Written Tips

Motivating Yourself To Do Something Scary

Don't think about what your doing too much, if you take a while and think about it, you won't be able to do it right then. Do something elso for a while to take your mind off it and go back and do it quickly. When you sit and think, you think of all the things that could go wrong. While it's not a bad thing to realize what could go wrong, most of the things are very unlikely.
John Glazer



Busking

Busking is a weird thing. Some days youll get $500 for a show, and some days, you'll get 10 bucks. From the little bit of experience I have, its definitely not your juggling or unicycling skills that get you the money. It’s your stage presence and ability to keep the audience entertained by other means. It really takes work to perfect those skills. I’m not sure on the legalities really, but often its illegal in places where you think it shouldnt be. So try to talk to someone about a site youve found.
Kevin McMullin

I've done quite a lot of busking, but never on a unicycle. So I'll pass on what tips I have.
  • Check the legality in the specific area you're busking, it totally depends on local laws... Oxford and York you're find in, Birmingham you aren't, bits of London you are, and other bits you aren't.
  • This one's a bit difficult with a uike, but make sure that at all times you can easily close or pick up your money box - the last thing you want is to busk all day and someone to nick the contents.
  • Check out where other people busk before you go - find a good pitch and make sure you aren't starting a turf war.
  • Have one or two killer tricks that get the money rolling in - get a good crowd up, do a killer trick, get the money in, and then have a break.
  • With reference to the last one - have plenty of breaks, and a bottle of water about the place, if you are tired and not performing well people won't pay you.
    'Bob' from unicyclist.com forums




    • Fitting Cycle Computers To Unicycles

    Two tips:
    1. If you fit a trip computer which reads from a magnet attached to a spoke (as most do) then fit the magnet slightly AHEAD of the crank on that side. I have had this annoying pinging noise for a while now and thought it was a loose spoke, as it only happened at times of maximum torque - like cresting a hill. It turned out that either the wheel was flexing or, more likely the forks were, when I was pushing hardest on the pedals, and the magnet was catching the 'reader' attached to the fork leg. That was with the magnet randomly positioned on the wheel - coincidentally, a few degrees behind the crank. Moving the magnet has cured the problem.


    2. I was looking at wireless computers in my local sports store. They transmit a radio signal to the computer unit, so there is no need for a wire. My idea was to keep the computer in my pocket or on a wrist band for easy reading when I was riding. I sneakily took the instructions out of the pack to see whether the unit would work on a 36 inch wheel, and noticed a reference to the computer having to be positioned within 30 degrees of a line passing vertically up from the 'reader' on the forks. Presumably the transmitter only transmits in a narrow cone like this to stop it interfering with similar computers on other cycles travelling in a group. However, it seems to me that this level of precision would be unsustaiable on a unicycle, so I guess these wireless devices probably won't work for us.
      ‘Mikefule’ from unicyclist.com forums


    Distance Riding

    First, I'd say don't push yourself. If you ride until it hurts, then stop for a minimal rest, then ride until it hurts, you won't enjoy it and you won't cover as much distance in the day. Especially as you get tired, take more frequent breaks. On a recent epic on the Coker, I found myself stopping about every mile towards the end. When I did 20 miles on the 20 a while back, the last few miles were similarly punctuated!

    Secondly, when you do stop, get some calories down you, and some fluid. It's as important for the mind as the body. Take a book/comic/newspaper and read it for a few minutes, unless you have a companion to chat to. Breaks in the ride should be part of the day out, not just a break to get your breath back an to recover the feeling in your legs!

    Thirdly, put variety in the route. You can cover distance on tarmac or smooth paths, but riding on something more challenging is good for the morale. Take an occasional diversion when the opportunity arises.

    Which leads to fourthly: when morale is flagging, and legs are tired, set goals - I'll ride to that next bend, big tree, top of the hill... just something to aim for so that you feel you've earned your rest. And finally finally, enjoy the riding for its own sake, and the distance will come naturally. Set out to do the distance for its own sake and you may just end up hating it.
    Anonymous



    Side Mounts

    First, I practised just stepping onto the pedal and not trying to mount. Just get used to the feel of balancing the unicycle as it leans over to the side.

    Then practise swinging the leg into position, but not trying too hard to make a fully successful mount.

    Then go for the full mount.

    A few specifics which helped me:
  • Start with the unicycle vertical, then lean it about 30 degrees to the right, but without tipping it either forwards or backwards.
  • Put the left pedal down. This means the crank should be perfectly in line with the forks.
  • Hold the seat by the rear bumper, slightly to the right, with the right hand.
  • Start with the right arm completely straight.
    • Start with the left foot on the left pedal and the right foot a short distance back, and in line to swing through the gap between the left foot and the unicycle.

    By keeping th eright arm straight, it is possible to make a stable triangle, holding the unicycle more or less at a constant angle of lean to the right, even when your weight is on the left pedal.

    As the right leg swings through and round, allow the right arm to bend steadily, placing the left side of the seat (the 'instep'of the seat) against the left thigh. This steadies the unicycle as the right foot hits the pedal, and you idle or ride as necessary.

    There is much more time to do this than you think. Be methodical.
    ‘Mikefule’ from unicyclsit.com forums



    Kickup Mounts

    (a) Don't make the stupid mistake I made -- for months i was putting the kickup foot in the wrong position, under the seat where the seat post meets the saddle. This is hopeless. The correct starting position is right where the saddle is supposed to meet the pants (or trousers, for brits).

    (b) My suggested tip for learning kick-up’s is to practice the side mount a lot ... especially the 'extreme side mount' (you could call it the "pick-up mount"), where the unicycle begins lying on the floor, then you side mount it. I think it's rather like the kick up mount, except that you're using your hand, rather than foot, to lift the seat into position... so you learn something about how to get the uni up, shift your weight onto the seat, get your other foot onto the pedal, and ride off.

    Dunno if it works for you, but I think it helped me learn to kick-up.
    ‘julianlim’ from unicyclist.com forums

    The two things that I keep in mind when doing a kick up mount are:
    1. The foot kicking up the saddle should act like it is trying to hit as high up on the inner thigh of the other leg as possible.


    2. Jump up as well as jump to the side. I have a bad habit of just jumping to the side and letting the uni leverage my weight up. That is not good and usually ends up in failure. When I remember to jump up the mount is in better control and it doesn't take as much force to kick up the uni.
      John Childs


    This is a lot like the suicide mount. Its easy if you 'go for it'. If you go at it half hearted you wont do it.

    Lay the uni down with the pedal almost horizontal. Start a few steps facing the saddle then walk towards it. Put your first foot right under the saddle (in the curve of the padded bit) put the other foot on the pedal and keep on walking. That's it. The normal walking movement is perfect for lifting the uni. This will work if you keep up you walking momemtum.
    ‘nb’ from unicyclist.com forums

    On my third attempt I actually aquired the seat and realised that when you have the seat and your fav foot on the down-pedal, you are basically in a position to apply 'normal' mounting principals in order to complete the mount.
    Dave (‘GILD’) from unicyclist.com forums



    Mounting Large Wheel Unicycles

    When riding big wheeled unicycles, particularly Cokers, it's important to note that the added momentum of the bigger, heavier wheel should change the way you approach it. Instead of only concentrating on keeping the wheel underneath you, you will also need to try to keep yourself on top of the unicycle.

    When mounting a Coker, it will be much more difficult to roll the wheel back underneath you. Instead, try to keep the wheel relatively still and lauch your whole body up and over the wheel.

    Start with one foot planted on the ground and one on the back pedal. This pedal should not be level with the other, but a little below it. This will give you room to move before lauching up onto the unicycle. Start with you body right back and smoothly, powerfully, and confidently move your *whole* body forwards. At the same time, allow the leg that's on the pedal to bend at the knee until the pedals are roughly level with each other, then push down on that pedal. Because the wheel has so much momentum it should not roll backwards and will help to launch you up and over it.

    When you're up there you will most likely have more time to react than you'd think. Don't chicken out of pedalling away...you're not likely to hurt yourself. Just firmly plant the second foot down and confidently ride off.
    Andrew Carter



    Steering Large Wheel Unicycles

    I'm not sure that I can be all that helpful with steering Cokers. The fact is that it's always going to be more difficult to do tight turns on a bigger wheel, but it's still do-able. Just make sure you have your arms out wide for balance, but also to give you more twisting power as you try to turn tight corners. For smooth and long corners, Cokers are beautiful. Just lean and twist your upper body and the wheel should follow. Have a look at the tips on turning in the "Leanring to Unicycle" document and try applying those basic techniques (although I can't really remember what we wrote in there for turning, but it may help a little). You're always going to need ot get out there and see what works for you though, everyone learns things differently. Sorry I can't really give much more advice.
    Andrew Carter